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R.C. SAILING TIPS... A Soling Seminar, by Peter Van Rossem

How To Set Up Your Rig

1. Install rig to where you would normally install.

- In heavy airs use the front hole

- In Medium airs use the middle hole

- In light airs use the back hole

2. A ) By looking at the mast from the side of the boat make sure the mast is as straight as possible.

B ) Check to see if the mast is centered left and right by tipping boat over on a straight table and measuring from the tip of mast to the ground and then reversing the above on the other tack. Make adjustments as needed.

Once the mast is set up as described above you are ready for the next step.

Bring the boat to the site.

Setting Up The Main

1. Heel the boat over in the cradle to simulate the boat sailing through the water. If you have tell tails turn the boat till the inside one (closest to the wind) starts to fly straight.

2. Pull the boom in to the centre of the boat with the transmitter. (You want the winch transmitter and the trim to be set at max in and still have adjustment of at least .75" both + , - on the boom adjustment)

Adjust the main boom so that the main boom is off the centre line about . 7 5"

3. Adjust the out haul so that you have about .75" - 1" from the boom to the sail. (tighter in heavy airs and drifters and looser in light airs and choppy water.)

4. Snug up the cunningham (not tight) to take any wrinkles out of the sail. As the air increases add more cunningham. Again you don't want it tight.

5. Pull the boom vang tight so that the middle batten is parallel to the boat.

The upper batten is twisted off to leeward

The lower batten is twisted to windward

Recheck that after setting the boom vang that the main boom is still in, roughly .75" off the centre line.

Setting Up The Jib

1. Set the out haul to match the main.

2. Set the cunningham so the line is not loose.

3. Adjust the boom so that the end of the boom points to the shroud.

4. You set the jib leach tension by pulling on the back / fore stay..

The tighter the back/fore stay, the tighter the leach. Set the leach so when you look at the jib leach from the rear that the main and jib are equal to each other.

5. Start at the beginning and recheck the entire process.

You may need to do this several times to get it right.

Test Rudder for Straightness Very Important ! ! !

1. When you put your boat in the water you have to make sure the rudder is straight.

2. Point your boat head to wind is best and with the sails out give her a liberal push. (Hands off the control stick)

3. Adjust the trim so your boat tracks straight. Do this as many time as needed to find the true centre of the rudder.

4. Note where your trim is in case you disturb it in a race. Having the rudder centered gives you the feeling you need going up wind (weather helm).

Test Sail

Sail up wind close hauled away from any other boat (In Clean Air) as soon as possible. You need the boat to sail hands off for about three to five boat lengths before she needs to be headed down to fill the sails.

To much helm? (Boat rounds up and you loose control)

(Can’t tack)

Move mast further forward and start at the beginning.

Open the leach of the main to balance her out.

Not Enough Helm? (Can’t point)

(Can’t tack)

Move mast back and start at the beginning.

Close the leach of the main to balance her out.

Boat Handling

Sail Clean

There are a number of things that effect your position on the race coarse. The first is sailing clean. I can’t do well in a race if I'm tangled up with another boat before the start. You have to, have to, have to sail clean.

Get Your Head Out Of The Boat

If you have driven a motor bike or a full size sail boat you would do everything to avoid a collision. It is important to do the same in this sport.

Get used to sailing with your head out of the boat. You need to see the other guy coming and even if you are in the right, it’s not worth proving it in a show of head butts.

Practice Your Mark Rounding

When my boat is set up and I'm happy with it, I go practice mark rounding. The windward and leeward marks are great tests. I sail as close as I can and try to gauge the gap between the boat and mark. If I left lots of room I sail back and do it again till I am happy with my mark rounding. It’s never perfect but by practicing you will get better at judging the roundings.

Smooth Steering

You don’t sail a full size boat by ramming the helm hard to starboard or port without a major lose in boat speed. Steering should be smooth. Think of the rudder as a brake.

Port Tack Approach Vs Tacking Below

Many times while going up wind it is better to dip the starboard tack boat because if planned early, you will have gained up more speed due to heading down and as you pass the transom you can use the speed to pinch up and gain back some of what you lost. When you meet next, you will be on starboard and in command and he will be forced to dip or tack. Hopefully you planned it right and are able to fetch the windward mark. If he tacked below he runs the risk of being steam rolled. If he dips, he will be behind you going around the mark.

Starts

If you want to start at the pin (leeward Mark), sail from the committee boat (windward mark) to the pin and count the seconds it takes for you to sail to the pin. If it takes 20 seconds you will know when to start at the committee boat to be at the pin with full speed. You can do the same if starting at the committee boat. The key is to be at full speed and clean air so you have the options to tack or sail with the fleet.

And Finally,

Practice Practice Practice!!!