Well we are finally at the end of winter and spring is just around the corner. I see many signs of spring in my garden. The tulips and crocus, hyacinthe as well as many other herbaceous plants are about to bloom.

Many regions are still deep in snow in March and April, but some days there is a hint of spring in the air. Gardeners start to look forward to planting the first seeds, although the rist of frost still has to be considered.

PERENNIAL SEEDLINGS
There is a great deal of leeway in the starting time for flowers. Perennials should be started now, especially as some ordered seeds do not arrive until this month. They may not flower the first year, but some varieties do and it is best to get a good root development before their first winter.

Give slow seeds time to germinate before transplanting other seedlings in the same lot. Bells of Ireland will germinate irregularly over a period of five weeks. Others such as globe amaranth may have germination rates as low as 40%. Keep in mind that seeds that are sown too thickly are more prone to damping off, particularly those of coleus. Do not be daunted by problems the first time or two that a new kind of seed is tried. Much of the satisfaction in gardening is learning from experience.

I use a soilless mix, predampened, spray the soil with damp off diluted as per the directions on the bottle. Firm down the soil, but not too firm, place your seedlings and cover as per directions on the seed package. Dampen with a mister and place in a plasltic bag and place in a spot suitable for that particular seed, they usually recommend a temperature on the back of the seed package. Wait until the plants have formed their second set of leaves before transplanting to a larger container. I use a transplant fertilizer to moisten before and after transplanting.

It is also time to start your cana lilies, dahlias and begonias. I line a cardboard box with a grocery bag, add some soilless mix, set the bulbs in and add a little more soilless mix around the bulbs, not covering them completely and dampen. Keep damp and in no time they will have little shoots of green. Place in a bright spot and wait until the 24th of May to plant outdoors. Harden them off, that is to aclimatize them gradually to the outdoors. Place them in a sheltered, shaded spot for about two hours per day and gradually increase the time they are left outdoors. Bring them indoors at night just in case we get a frost.

Trim buddeleias or commonly called butterfly bushes and hydrangeas to about 12" from the ground. I like to fertilize around these plants with either compost or bonemeal.

If you are lucky enought to have a heated greenhouse you can sow tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley, cosmos, pinks and nasturtiums for an early display.

HERB OF THE MONTH
Achillea Millefolium - Yarrow
Hardy herbaceous pungent perennial with varieties from 6 - 24 inches. Finely feathered bright grey-green leaves and flat heads of white, pink, red or yellow follows. All of which dry beaufifully for those dried arrangements. This plant is drought tollerant and will bloom all summer - a very good addition to any sunny border.

Use: folk remedy for rheumatism, toothache, haemorrhage and fever; fresh young leaves used sparingly in salads.

Prefers full sun and well drained soil. Spreads readily, so beware. Divide in spring or autumn. It can also be easily started from seed.

INDOOR HERB GARDEN
An indoor herb garden lets you enjoy the flavour and fragrance of fresh herbs year round. A few pots on your kitchen windowsill will always be at hand to add herbal zest to your suisine, and to remind you of summertime and the outdoors.

You can start your indoor herb garden now and plant them out in the garden after all chance of frost. Most herbs need 4 - 5 hours of direct sunshine each day.

NEW RECIPE
We also have a new recipe for tonics and potting mix for houseplants It consists of soilless mix, sterilized soil, bonemeal, coffee grounds, wood stove ashes. Stop by and pick up the recipe or buy it already mixed up.