When I got off the train at Irkutsh,
the Intourist representative who had arranged for the Intourist bus
to take me to their Hotel Baikal met me. This hotel was in the town
of Listvyanka on Lake Baikal that was 65 kilometers east of Irkutsh.
I arrived at Lake Baikal after a previous frost had turned the
leaves on the trees to brilliant golden and red colours. I took some
excellent photographs of the deep blue Lake Baikal, the steep hills
round the lake that were golden and red with the fall leaves and the
clear light blue sky (see picture at right). I could understand why
in the fairy tales of native Siberians, the lake is referred
to as the "Pearl of Siberia". The lake is the largest freshwater
lake in the world and contains 18% of the world’s surface fresh
water. Also it is 1637 meters deep which makes it the deepest lake
in the world.
Near the hotel I visited the Limological Institute and Museum
where I found out about the large number of different living species
that are in and around the lake and the geological formation of the
lake by a major fault. This fault accounts for the very steep hills
that surround the lake. Listvyanka village was the first Russian
settlement on Lake Baikal and has delightfully painted single
story wooden houses. The village has a beautiful church that is the
oldest church in that area (see picture at right). I crossed the
lake from Litvyanka on a small motor launch to see the famous
Circumbaikal Railway that was part of the Trans-Siberian Railway
prior the flooding of some of the track in 1956 with the
construction of a dam across the Angera River. This large river is
the only outlet to Lake Baikal. The Circumbaikal Railway was built
at the base of the steep hills along the shore of Lake Baikal to
connect the eastern and the western sections of the Trans-Siberian
Railway (see picture at right). Prior to this, railway passengers
and freight railway cars had to be transferred by ferry across
Lake Baikal. The Circumbaikal Railway was built between 1989and 1904
at considerable cost as it required 33 tunnels and 200 bridges for a
short section of track ( see picture at right). In 1956 a new
126mile section to the Trans-Siberian Railway was built from Irkutsh
to the southern part of the lake to by-pass the costly and difficult
to maintain section that ran along the southwestern part of the
lake.
After 3 days at Lake Baikal, I returned to Irkutsh to get my
train to Vladivostok. The train that I was on, originated in the
Siberian City of Krasnoyarsk and was much more crowded than
the train I traveled on before from Moscow. This time I was in a
compartment with a young Russian army officer who was stationed in a
small town called Okhotsh. This town is on the East Coast next to
the Sea of Okhotsk and about 1000 kilometers north of Vladivostok.
He was travelling with his wife and 5 year old daughter and was
returning from an annual leave spent visiting his and his wife’s
parents (see picture at right). So for 3 days we had a chance to
talk about ourselves, where we lived and of course share our food at
mealtime. I found out all about how they lived in a small town near
the sea in Northern Siberia. There were only Russians on this car
and they told me about the towns and cities that we were passing
through. They were very interested in talking to me and finding out
about my life in Canada.
From Irkutsh the train took a route to the south of Lake Baikal
and the turned North to follow the Eastern Shore of the lake (see
picture at right). The Eastern Shore of Lake Baikal was very
picturesque. After about 100 kilometers of shore travel the train
turned northeast over hilly country and followed and crossed a
number of rivers. This was pretty and interesting country to travel
through. The train traveled about 100 kilometers north of the
Mongolia border for 550 kilometers from Lake Baikal and near the
northern part of China the train was only 50 kilometers or less from
the Chinese border all the way to Vladivostok.
At Khabarovsh that is 766 kilometers north of Vladivostok,
the train crossed the very wide Amur River and then turned directly
south to Vladivostok. Kharbarovsh (population 614,000) and
Vladivostok (population 648,000) are the only 2 large cities east of
Irkutsh. There are a number of smaller cities and towns along the
line east of Irkutsh. The army officer and his family got off at
Khabaroysh and had to take a plane north to Okhotsk.
