Most people make their visits to
Alaska in the summer when it is warm. I had planned to visit Russia
in the fall to see the fall colours. By the time I got to Alaska on
October 6, their cold and snowy weather had already begun. So I
layered myself with all the warm clothes, I had in my suitcase to
face the cold and enjoy my first visit to Alaska.I rented a small
car at the airport on arrival and stayed the first night in a hotel
in downtown Anchorage. I checked the weather and saw that it was
going to be all clear at Mount McKinley the next day but was going
to be snowing in Fairbanks. I wanted to see Mount McKinley that has
an elevation of 6194 meters or 20,320 feet and is the highest peak
in North America. I drove north on the George Parks Highway (Hwy. 3)
to the town of Talkeetna from where the best viewing of Mount
McKinley could be made. It was clear sunny day and I was able to
take some beautiful photographs of the Mount McKinley and the
surrounding mountains at the viewing sight near Talkeetna. I drove
into Talkeentna to see the town from where climb expeditions to
Mount McKinley are organized.
I
continued north on the very scenic Highway 3 to Denali Park and had
planed to drive into the park for about 150 kilometers to see more
beautiful scenery. As I approached the park entrance near the town
of McKinley Park, the snow was falling lightly but the main road to
Fairbanks was just snow covered and sanded fairly well. I had
already traveled 400 kilometers from Anchorage. When I turned into
the park entrance the road had just been ploughed of snow but was
very icy. I met 2 vans coming out of the park with about 9 inches of
new snow on the roofs. At the first opportunity, I turned round to
get back to the main highway. I decided this is not the time of year
for a visit to Denali Park (see picture at right). I decided to
drive all the way to Fairbanks that was only 200 kilometers away
instead of staying in or near Denali Park for the night. With the
snow received the previous night and the snow flurries with sunny
periods the trip to Fairbanks was just a beautiful winter wonderland
through the mountains of the Alaska Range.
I arrived in Fairbanks (population 30,800) just before dark and I
stayed in a motel for the night. At daybreak I left to see
Fairbanks. I went downtown to the tourist office which is located on
the bank of the Chena River at the spot that Captain E. T. Barnette
landed after the boat captain refused to ferry him further due to
the low river level. Captain Barnette founded a trading post and
settlement at this place that later was named for Charles Warren
Fairbanks of Indiana, a US senator and vice president to Theodore
Roosevelt. I found that the interesting places to visit were closed
for the winter and all that was left was a couple of museums. I then
took a short trip through the city to see the downtown and terminus
of the Alaska Railroad that came from Anchorage. The previous day I
saw parts of the track of Alaska Railroad as it parallels the
highway from Anchorage to Fairbanks.
After
my short tour of the city of Fairbanks, I wanted to head south and
follow the Alaska Pipeline that goes through Fairbanks, then goes
south-east for 163 kilometers along the Alaska Highway (Hwy 2) to
Delta Junction and then goes south for 451 kilometers along the
Richardson Highway (Hwy 4) to the crude oil loading terminal at the
port of Valdez. As it had snowed the previous day and I was going
over the pass in the Alaska Range on the Richardson Highway, I
phoned the State Troopers to verify if the highway was clear. They
assured me it had been cleared and that it was open to traffic. At
Big Delta on the Alaska Highway, I stopped to see and photograph the
Alaska Pipeline crossing the wide Goodplaster River on a suspension
bridge (see picture at right). At Delta Junction, I turned south and
started the climb over the Alaska Range. The road was plowed but was
icy. On the hills and corners the road had been sanded. So I slowed
down for the icy road as I did not particularly want to end up in
the ditch especially as there was little traffic and hardly any
people living along this route. Driving slower gave me an
opportunity to appreciate the wintry beauty of the Alaska Range that
had received a heavy snowfall the day before. In the pass over the
Alaska Range,
I stopped at a viewing sight, to read about how the Alaska Pipeline
was supported on posts over the permafrost areas and how the posts
had radiators to prevent the posts from melting the permafrost (see
picture at right). Although the scenery was fantastic over the
Alaska Range, I was relieved when I finally crossed it and got back
on bare pavement. Just south of the Alaska Range are some large
lakes that had a few cottages. Near the junction of Richardson and
Glen Highway, I saw the Wrangell Mountains to the east and the
Chugach Mountains to the south. The scenery from this junction to
Valdez was just fantastic. I stopped at the last pumping station on
the Alaska Pipeline that was just north of
the Chugach Mountains and read how a pumping station is built and
how it is staffed 24 hours a day. The pumping station is a large
facility and I was able to see various parts of the facility from an
observation platform built especially to inform people about the
Pipeline (see picture at right). 50 kilometers before Valdez, I
stopped to admire the large Worthington Glacier that was fairly
close to the highway.
Valdez is on a beautiful harbor that is surrounded by snow capped
mountains (see picture at right). It only has a population of 4,000
but because of the Exxon Valdez oil spill in 1989
the town has received a lot of publicity. I did not see any residual
effect from the oil pill in the harbor area. The harbor was very
clean. I saw the Alaska Pipeline Marine Terminal from the outside
but could not go on a tour of the terminal as the tours had closed
for the season. I wanted to cross Prince William Sound by ferry to
Whittier on the Kenai Peninsular but that ferry service was also
closed for the season. I stayed in a motel that night and next day
headed back north along the Richardson Highway to where it met the
Glen Highway (Hwy. 1).
The trip along the Glen Highway that goes west to Anchorage is
just north of the Chugach Mountains from where many
glaciers flow. The road has so many scenic spots that it was
impossible to stop at all of them. The best spot of all was at the
Eureka Summit from where I saw a fantastic view of the 43 kilometer
long Matanuska Glacier (see picture at right). I traveled again
through Anchorage delaying my visit there to the last few days of my
stay in Alaska. I went south on Highway 1 to the Turnagain Arm that
is another beautiful inlet, and went round it to the Turnagain Pass
(301 meters). I stayed the night at Coopers Landing in the center of
the Kenai Peninsular by the large Kenai Lake. The lake is surrounded
by high snow capped mountains that made this another of the many
beautiful places that I was so privileged to see and stay at.
Next
morning I headed west on Highway 1 to the town of Kenai (population
6,300) to see a Russian Orthodox Church that was established in 1894
and contains religious objects that were brought from Russia in 1841
(see picture at right). I also visited the Kenai Bicentennial
Visitors and Cultural Center that displays exhibits on Kenai’s
history and culture. Next I headed south on the western coast of the
Kenai Peninsular that runs close to the Cook Inlet. On the other
side of Cook Inlet, I saw a number of Volcanoes that the local
people assured me were still active. I reached Homer (population
3,700) that is on the pretty Kachemak Bay that is a 50-kilometer
inlet from Cook Inlet. The Skyline Drive on the plateau behind the
town offers a spectacular view of the harbor and the mountains on
the other side of the harbor.
I
stayed the night at Homer at a motel next to the Kachemak Bay. Early
next morning, I retracted my travels on Highway 1 to Highway 9 that
goes south to Seward on the eastern side of the Kenai Peninsular
(see picture at right). I wanted to take a boat trip from Seward to
see the glaciers that terminate in the Kenai Fiords. This time I was
more fortunate as I managed to obtain a booking for the next day on
the boat tour one day before the tours closed for the season. Kenai
is a small town with a population of 2,700 that rises quickly in the
summer tourist season. It has a coal loading facility where coal is
unloaded from the Alaska Railway coal trains and transferred to
large ocean bulk carriers that are presently
taking coal to South Korea (see picture at right). The harbor is
surrounded by high mountains, which makes this whole area very
picturesque. I spent the remainder of the afternoon walking over the
various nature trails at the State Park at Exit Glacier that is a
few kilometers outside of Seward. Here the trails are very close to
the end of the glacier and are marked with descriptions of the
history of the glacier and growth of the trees, shrubs, flowers and
animals in the areas the glacier has retreated from.
Next day a high-pressure system had moved into the area producing
a clear sunny day with
unusually cold temperature (-15C). Not the best day to be on a boat
but a great day for taking photographs. We left the dock at 11 AM on
the Alaskan Explorer and stopped at a resort on Fox Island for a
delicious grilled salmon lunch (see picture at right). The boat
carried about 100 people in a comfortable enclosed seating area. I
preferred to observe from the open areas in the front and back of
the boat in order to take photographs and see all the amazing
scenery and wildlife. I saw killer whales, porpoises, Stellar sea
lions, otters, and tufted puffins. I also saw Bear Glacier, Holgate
Glacier, Pederson Glacier and Aialik Glacier. All these glaciers
terminate in the sea. We came close to Aialik Glacier and were
able to hear the cracking of the ice and see large pieces of ice
falling into the sea. The temperature near the glacier dropped
another 10 degrees so it was very cold when we stopped near Aialik
Glacier. The glacier was so fantastic to see that I stood out on the
open deck to see this amazing sight in spite of the bitter cold
temperature. I was rewarded as I obtained some very impressive
photographs of the glacier (see picture at right).
Next day I headed back to Anchorage for my last 2 days in Alaska.
Anchorage is the largest city in Alaska (population 226,300) and
like most other places in Alaska is
surrounded by snow capped mountains. Cook Inlet is to the west and
Turnagain Arm to the south. All these features make it a very pretty
city to visit (see picture at right). Of particular interest to me
was the Anchorage Museum of History and Art. I took an interesting
historical walking tour of the city downtown area. I dropped into a
computer store and they let me e-mail a message on the internet to
my son in Vancouver and my daughter in Toronto telling them that I
should be in Vancouver and back in Canada the next day.